The study investigated (a) the processes governing IG wave generation and decay over the reef, and (b) the relative importance of IG waves, short waves and currents on the spatial distribution of bed shear stresses in the lee of the reef crest. A 3 week field study that consisted of an array of ten moored instruments was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency (infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef. A nearshore circulation model (XBeach) that includes IG wave generation, propagation and decay was then used to investigate the capability of numerical models to represent the hydrodynamic processes in a fringing reef environment.
Ryan Lowe, Christine Moore, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Dano Roelvink, Graham Symonds, Duong Minh Trang, Ap van Dongeren
European Commission Erasmus Mundus Program, Australian Research Council Discovery Grant (DP0770094), Australian Research Council Future Fellowship (FT110100201), CSIRO Flagship Collaboration Fund, Deltares Strategic Research Project 1202362 (System Tools), UNESCO-IHE DUPC MSc publication fund.